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野村友里 春夏秋冬 おいしい手帖|サンマの混ぜご飯

本誌連載、人気フードディレクター・野村友里さんの『春夏秋冬 おいしい手帖』と連動した動画です。毎月、旬の食材を使った母親から受け継いだ和食のレシピをアーカイブしていきます。

Recipe for Kannazuki (October) : Sanma rice

Pacific Saury, known as "Sanma" in Japan (sometimes called the "Mackeral Pike") and is a type of fish beloved in Japan. The fish start to swim down to the south of Japan in large shoals near Tokyo, where they mass offshore between September and October. If you happen to be in Japan in the Autumn months, then you are in for a great treat, experiencing the wide ranging diversity of wonderful foods available after the summer harvest. The Japanese say that Autumn is the best season for culinary delights to titillate and please the palate, making use of the abundance of ingredients provided by nature. There are many kinds of fish which seem to taste greater at this time of the year, along with earthy vegetables such as exquisite mushrooms, roasted chestnuts and fruits that are evocative of the cooler, darker days to come and reflect the autumnal season perfectly.

Sanma is one of the great seasonal foods at this time of year and its popularity is enhanced by its low price, nutritional benefits and great taste. Many villages and towns throughout Japan hold a "Sanma festival" to celebrate the arrival of this fish bounty, and barbecued Sanma are often given away on the street to passers by and people celebrating the season. During the Japanese Edo period, people loved the Sanma season, and generation after generation passed on their experience of the benefits of this nourishing food. They knew that once you start eating Sanma in the autumn, you were going to reap the medicinal (nutritional) as well as the culinary benefits of eating this delicious fish. Modern medicine backs this belief as Sanma are extremely nutritional, with Iron, Vitamins A, B2 and D, Calcium, EPA and DNA. Many people consider the best way to enjoy Sanma is just to simply grill and flavour the fish with salt. To make a good barbecued Sanma, first salt the fish on both sides and leave it for around 15 mins. Place it in a fish holder and grill it over a medium heat, make sure that you are not too close to the heat to give the best result, you don't want the fish to burn.

Sanma rice (for 4 people)

Sanma 2
Salt 4-5g
Vegetable oil or vinegar
Rice 720cc
Eringi mushroom 2

A
Kombu dashi (dried kelp stock) just under 2 cups
Light soysauce 2 tablespoons
Sake 2 tablespoons
Kombu (the one used to make the stock) 1 of 3x6 cm
Green Spring Onion 2

Method

1. Place a Sanma on a sturdy chopping board and use the edge of kitchen knife to remove the scales.Cut the belly horizontally and gut and clean the fish. Rinse the gutted Sanma well under running cold water, paying particular attention to the cavity.Dry it well with paper towels. With a sharp knife, score over both sides of the fish and sprinkle liberally with salt and leave it for 15 min.

2. Apply vegetable oil or vinegar on to a fish holder. Pre-heat the holder before placing the salted Sanma inside. Grill the fish over a medium heat and once cooked through, place on a plate and remove the large bone and head from the flesh as we are going to make Sanma flakes from the cooked fish.

3. Wash the rice and leave to soak it to soak in a bowl with water for 30 min.Trimming the ends off the Eringi mushrooms and slice them into 12 pieces, then cut each piece vertically in to six smaller pieces.

4. In a rice cooker or an earthenware pot put 3, A and a kombu to flavour and cook with the rice.In the case of cooking with an earthenware, put the pot on medium heat with a lid on. When it comes to boil, reduce the heat to simmer. Cook it for 15 min. When rice is cooked, turn the heat high for 10 seconds then turn it off. If lid is a little bit loose, put a firmly squeezed wet tea towel around the edge of the lid to not let the steam out. Leave it for 10min.

5. Chop spring onion. Wrap them in a piece of muslin and wash them under running water. Squeeze well to remove excess water.

6. When rice is cooked, add the flaked fish to the rice and mix it all together.

7. Serve in a traditional rice bowl. Pile up 5 on top of Sanma rice and enjoy.

Yuri Nomura

Food coordinator. She runs "eatrip", a company that organise food events and caterings. http://www.babajiji.com

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