野村友里 春夏秋冬 おいしい手帖 | カツオだしとそうめんつゆ

本誌連載、人気フードディレクター・野村友里さんの『春夏秋冬 おいしい手帖』と連動した動画です。毎月、旬の食材を使った母親から受け継いだ和食のレシピをアーカイブしていきます。

カツオだし

椎茸、昆布とかつお節から抽出しただしは旨味成分を含んだ調味料だ。旨味はアミノ産などの栄養素も豊富であるばかりでなく、香りも楽しむことができる。雑味がなく澄んだ香り高いだしは上質とされ、日本料理の味わいに深みを増す重要な存在だ。料理の出来を決定づけるこの旨味成分は「UMAMI」という言葉で海外の料理界でも通じるほど注目されている。今回はカツオだしの作り方の説明。まず1回目に取っただしは一番だしと呼ばれ、香りの良さと繊細でクリアーな味わいが特徴で贅沢なダシとされ、お吸い物、お椀などに使われることが多い。また、一番だしをとったあとのカツオ節は再度、水を入れてニ番だしをとることができ、強い香でだしの色が濃くなるため煮物などの味付けに使用されるのが一般的だ。

Bonito Stock (Katsuo Dashi)

A dashi is a stock, which is the one of main principal ingredient in Japanese cuisine.Bonito stock (katsuo dashi) can be made by infusing hoshi shitake (dried mushroom), kombu (dried kelp) and kezuri bushi(dried bonito flakes) in a bowl of water or by bring them to boil in a pan. The main component of the katsuo dashi is umami. The umami, recently recognised by the west as the “fifth taste “ or among basic taste. Many famous chefs from around the world are trying to increase umami content into their dishes. The umami is not only rich in nutrient amino acid, but it is also known for its enjoyable noble scent. The katsuo bushi begins generaly by a series of processes filleted, boiled, air dried, smoked then cured with mould to mature for couple of months. By going through such a long and caring process, using kastuo bushi increase the umami and also it gives authentic and pure scent. The bonito stock, which is made of the highest quality available katsuo bushi and kombu, is often forms the basis and an essential element of ingredient for the traditional Japanese cuisine.

Bonitio stock, kastuo dashi, is the recepie of today. You can use the same ingredients to make, ichiban dashi and niban dashi. The bonito stock that is made for the first time round is called "Ichiban dashi". The luxury ichiban dashi has exquisite scent and pellucid taste and often served as a soup or a chawan mushi (savoury cup custard)
Using the same ingredients, add water in a pan to make "niban dashi" (second dashi). Using the niban dashi mainly used to stewing dishes such as nimono.

材料:
【めんつゆ】(作りやすい分量)
だし汁(昆布とかつお) 2カップ
薄口醤油 80ml
みりん 80ml
塩 小さじ1/4

【かつおだし】(作りやすい分量)
削りがつお 25〜30g
昆布 25〜30g(削りがつおと同量)
水 1.6L

【そうめん】(2人分)
そうめん 4束(1束50g)
たこ糸 適宜
湯 適宜
すだち(薄切り)、氷 各適宜

【薬味】
大葉、みょうが(各せん切り) 各適宜
鶏のささ身(ゆでて、ほぐす) 各適宜

Here is the recipe:
Men Tsuyu (noodle soup):
25g-30g bonito flakes (shaved dried bonito)
25g-30g kombu (dried kelp)
1.6l water
2 cups bonito stock
80ml light soy sauce
80ml mirin
1/4 teaspoon salt

Somen Noodles (for 2 people):
4 bundles of somen
plenty of water to boil the somen
1 cup cold water
Cotton thread to tie the bundle
sudachi (mild Japanese citrus) to decorate

Condiments:
Myouga (Japanse ginger) or/and Ohba (Japanese basil) chopped into fine strip.
Boiled and shredded chicken fillet

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