野村友里 春夏秋冬 おいしい手帖 | カツオのたたき

本誌連載、人気フードディレクター・野村友里さんの『春夏秋冬 おいしい手帖』と連動した動画です。毎月、旬の食材を使った母親から受け継いだ和食のレシピをアーカイブしていきます。

カツオのたたき

背に青身を帯びた魚を「青魚」と呼び、中性脂肪を下げる効果があると現代では注目されている食材。日本では春を過ぎると四国から東北に向かって移動するカツオを「初ガツオ」と呼び、初夏を告げる日本料理として親しまれている。そして調理法は簡単でおいしいところも人気の理由だ。うろこを取ったカツオを 皮がついたままあぶって、魚の臭みをとる薬味(ネギ、生姜、ニンニクなど)とちり酢をつけて楽しむ。江戸の時代から「たたき」と呼ばれた料理が存在したという説もあるが、明治ごろからカツオの産地である土佐から広まった料理だと言われている。

Katsuo no tataki (seared bonito)

Katsuo is a fish that has a distinctive bluish colour to it's back and so is natively known as the "blue fish". 'Blue fish' are becoming ever popular because it is proven to reduce neutral fat. Katsuo (bonito) migrate from Shikoku (in the South of Japan) to Tohoku (in the North) after Spring. Those katsuo that are caught around the Spring season are called "hatsu gatsuo" (the first season of Katsuo) as this katsuo migration is taken to be a sign that summer is soon to visit. The Japanese love to eat seasonally, enjoying the great variety and flavours that each season brings, making the most of the abundant foods that nature provides.

At the beginning of summer, one dish that is popular is "katsuo no tataki", as it signals the long, warm, hazy days of summer and because it is a simple dish to prepare. Making "katsuo no tataki" is not complicated and there are a couple of theories regarding the origin of the cooking method of "tataki" - food seared by an open flame, by frying or by quick boiling. One theory is that "tataki" existed since the time of Edo and was popularised then, the other is that it started as a method if cooking at a famous katsuo fish port in Tosa, around the Meiji period. Cooked using the searing method, the scales are first removed from the fish but the skin is left on. Next you need to clean and fillet the fish. The fillets are then seared over a flame, capturing the flavour. The dish is served and complimented, with a simple vinaigrette dressing and chopped condiments.

材料(4人分):
カツオ 一柵
ミョウガ 6個
生姜 70グラム
大場 13枚
青ネギ 適量
塩 適量
レモン 適量
ちり酢
醤油 大さじ6
酢 大さじ6
みりん 大さじ2

Here is the recipe for 4 people:
The fish
300 -500 g Katsuo (Bonito)
salt to sprinkle
a cold wet tea towel that has been firmly wrung out

For the condiment:
6 pieces myoga (Japanese ginger)
70g ginger
13 leaves of Green perilla (shiso)
12 green spring onions / or use half onion
Half a clove of garlic
Salt to sprinkle
Lemon - to taste.

For the "chiri su" sauce (vinaigrette)
6 tablespoon soy sauce
6 tablespoon vinegar
2 table spoon mirin

NEXT PAGE

詳しい作り方